Planning a pintxo crawl in San Sebastián? Discover what to expect at La Cuchara de San Telmo—from the standing-room chaos to top dish recommendations.
You can make an argument that there is no better place to eat in Europe than in San Sebastian.
-Anthony Bourdain
Having been to San Sebastián several times, a pintxo crawl is always at the top of my wish list. After all, it is not every day that one gets an opportunity to fly halfway across the world and indulge in one of the world’s great food capitals. With thirteen Michelin-starred restaurants tucked into this small resort town, San Sebastian has the second-highest number of stars per capita in the world. It is no surprise the late Anthony Bourdain was so drawn to this culinary haven.
Discovering La Cuchara de San Telmo
I was in town for the San Sebastian International Film Festival as part of the Philippine delegation. And on our last day, we were sent this message: “Today’s Schedule: Final Lunch for Delegation at the La Cuchara de San Telmo”. YES!
I had very little knowledge of La Cuchara prior to this trip–only that it was one of Bourdain’s favorite pinxto bars in the Old Town. But instead of the usual pinxtos displayed on the countertop, they served them hot, gourmet style. That was enough to get me excited!
Beating the Line at 31 de Agosto
We were told to arrive as early as 11:00 AM to guarantee a spot as it can be very crowded on any given day. True enough, the doors were still shut when we arrived, but a queue was already forming. Within minutes, the line behind us snaked down the cobblestone alleyway. And when the doors opened, everyone rushed in to secure their spot.
Standing Room Only: Navigating the Chaos
Take note: La Cuchara is strictly standing room so be prepared to stand shoulder-to-shoulder with other diners.
PinayTraveller Tip: For diners who would like to have a sit-down meal, tables and chairs are available outside the restaurant. Just ask the waiters.
It took me a while to take in the energetic chaos of the famous bar. Orders were being shouted and confirmed all at once! Before long La Cuchara’s iconic dishes began making their way over to the tables one by one.
A Feast to Remember
As soon as I took a bite of the dishes before me, I understood what all the fuss was about.
The Carrilera (Braised Veal Cheeks in Red Wine), slow-cooked to perfection, rested on a velvety reduction of red wine. One melt-in-your-mouth bite, and the worries of the world simply faded away.
Meanwhile, the Foie Gras con Compota de Manzana (Roasted Foie Gras with Apple Compote) was simply heavenly. Creamy and flavorful, one bite of this delicacy was a gourmand’s dream.
The Galician pulpo (octopus) was tender and as fresh as the ocean. Even the house-made morcilla (blood sausage) stole the show. Deeply savory and beautifully seared, it tasted familiar, like a warm hug from home.
The Verdict
So Bourdain did not lie—La Cuchara lived up to the hype and fully deserves his adoration. The deep and rich flavors packed into its cramped but intensely vibrant space truly make for an unforgettable San Sebastián culinary experience.
| PinayTraveller’s Quick Guide Where to find it: 31 de Agosto Kalea, 28, Donostia-San Sebastian. When to go: Get there at least 15 to 20 minutes before opening if you want to secure a table What to expect: Crowds, noise, no chairs, but absolutely delicious food. It helps to look at the menu beforehand so you can order quickly. |
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